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The challenge of efficiently powering both the Arduino and the sensor shield without resorting to an unwieldy setup led to a compromise: using two power plugs, a solution that, while not ideal, was necessary under the constraints of time and resources.ĭesign refinements were also an integral part of the process. One significant hurdle was the project’s power supply system.
![arduino mega 3d printer pinout arduino mega 3d printer pinout](https://schematron.org/image/anycubic-i3-mega-wiring-diagram-7.jpg)
Each of the 30 servos underwent rigorous testing for functionality, with a critical step involving the calibration of these components to ensure the clock’s precise movement. However, the assembly phase presented its own set of challenges. A real-time clock (RTC) module was also essential for maintaining accurate time. The project required two power supplies to ensure all components received adequate energy, white Hatchbox filament for its optimal quality for 3D printing, an off-brand Arduino Mega (from Elegoo), a sensor shield for the electronics, and 30 budget-friendly servos to bring the kinetic aspect to life. The choice of materials was crucial to this endeavor. Lukas embarked on this venture with a clear goal: to build a clean, minimalistic kinetic clock that elevates the concept of timekeeping into kinetic art. If you’re reading this, Lukas… give it a shot!ĭesigner: Lukas Deem (originally made by Jacky Mok) The final result looks gorgeous, and I can only imagine how wonderful it would look if Lukas mounted a stretchy white cloth on the front, allowing the parts to push through to create the shape of every number. Lukas walks the viewers through the whole procedure, which took multiple iterations and fixes to put together, even detailing out a special stand he made for the clock once it was up and running. The project comes courtesy YouTuber Lukas Deem, who meticulously builds the clock from scratch using bespoke 3D-printed parts, an Arduino Mega SoC, and a handful of motors and sensors (while graciously documenting the process for all of us to see. Strategically place it in an area with dramatic lighting and the time stands out through how the clock captures highlights and casts shadows. Outwardly, the Minimal Kinetic Clock is just a flat piece of white plastic, but thanks to a few moving parts, it assumes a three-dimensional shape that tells the time. Checked all the wiring, the psu and everything else and have already spent a lot of money and time into this.Let’s face it, that thumbnail probably brought you here. If I try plugging in the Mega via the USB, my PC would just shutdown and so is my laptop. This time I tried it from a desktop and it also shutdown abruptly. Then I carefully uploaded the Repetier firmware (after doing the initial configs again) and powered on the printer. It worked perfectly when tested with the Blink code. So, I requested a replacement with the online vendor and bought another Mega 2560 from a local store yesterday. Another post in the Arduino forum stated the exact issue I faced, including the error codes and everything. I tried installing the drivers for Mega 2560 manually, but it all failed. The device manager showed it as "AtMega 16U2 DFU" under the "Other Devices" section. That one, just out-of-the-box, would not be detected by my laptop. I tried different methods available on the Internet to fix the firmware for the Mega, but the board would not just detect at all for me to burn the new firmware. When left for sometime, the microcontroller would slowly heat-up. When plugged to the USB or to the power source, the green (Power) and the orange (D13) LED would just light up and nothing else happened. Then all my attempts to connect the Mega to my laptop was in vain. When I uploaded the code, doing the initial configs (choosing the motherboard and setting the baudrate), as soon as the upload was complete, my laptop shutdown abruptly. So, I thought of changing the firmware and after some googling, I chose to switch to Repetier. Then I tried to test the setup with this code (from ), everything (all the three axes and the extruder) worked perfectly. The issue was still there even with the new driver. So, I replaced the driver for the third axis. I tried swapping the drivers, then the third axis was also working fine.
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While calibrating Marlin, I was able to move two axes perfectly but had trouble with the third axis. Initially, I was sticking with Marlin for the firmware. Non-reddit communities are listed in our getting started guide We welcome community contributions to this wiki! Related Communities Hit the report button or message the mods NEED HELP? WE HAVE A WIKI!